25 August 2010 | In Albania, Muslims celebrate Ramadan and their religious freedom. Sanije Kembora, a 62-year-old woman from Lushine, near Tirana, rises every day at 4am during Ramadan. She prepares food for syfyr -- a meal eaten before dawn -- and wakes up the members of her family. Kembora told SETimes she has been following this routine for at least 40 years. "I fast, and this is a way to strengthen my dedication and loyalty to God," she said.

To her, like to most Muslim Albanians, Ramadan is a month of festivities. It is also a celebration for all people regardless of their religious affiliation, a symbol of religious co-existence.

The evidence of co-existence is particularly noticeable among the youth. With trays in their hands, Muslim children readily share cookies with their Orthodox Christian friends, from whom they get eggs during Easter.

This is a welcome change in a country where, during the 35 years under communist dictator Enver Hoxha, a Ramadan fast could cost a person their life. In 1967, Hoxha banned religion and codified the ban in law. Hundreds of churches and mosques were destroyed and religious books were burned.

The transformation to a democratic regime guaranteed freedom of religion in the country's constitution.

"Thanks to peaceful co-existence, tolerance and understanding, the sacred month of Ramadan is becoming more popular not only among Muslim believers, but for all society," Islamic Community head Selim Muca told SETimes.

He instructed the muftis in the country to broadcast television programmes, give public speeches and create posters, banners and calendars for Ramadan.

The changes have not gone unnoticed. In the 2009 US State Department report on religious freedom in the world, Albania stands out as a state where "there are no reported abuses or social discrimination on the basis of identity, religion or religious practices."

Such an assessment is in stark contrast with Kembora's recollection of years past when she prepared for syfyr in the dark, fearing that turning on lights would lead to reprisals.

"Of course we fasted, 'in an illegal way'. We used to wake up and eat secretly, and during the day we told no one that we were fasting. Anyone could report us to the secret police, and my family would risk being deported or incarcerated," she says.

"Fasting means expression of one's faith, sincerity, humanity, solidarity ... virtues that every believer should embrace," she added.

While believers may have it easier today, they still face challenges. This year Ramadan falls on the hottest month in summer, and the elderly can be affected. "The temperature is 38 Celsius. I try not to think of cold water," Kembora says.

She says that using her air conditioner helps suppress the thirst and boosts her ability to handle the heat. "Imagine that once upon a time we could not even turn on the light to eat," she said. "This is a miracle of freedom ... a miracle of God."


*This text is courtesy of the Southeast European Times (SET), a web site sponsored by the US Department of Defense in support of UN Resolution 1244, designed to provide an international audience with a portal to a broad range of information about Southeastern Europe. It highlights movement toward greater regional stability and steps governments take toward integration into European institutions. SET also focuses on developments that hinder both terrorist activity and support for terrorism in the region.

Read more about Albania on BalkanTravellers.com