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Monday, 13 October 2008



Esma Redžepova, the Institution



  

If it is true that interesting women, as they advance in age, become like cathedrals, then Esma would be Gaudí’s La Sagrada Família.

In her 64 years, her image has become overgrown with so much colour and detail that she looks like a mountain simmering with life.

To start with, Esma’s origins are clouded in mystery. Her chief role in life is that of a Macedonian Roma, the offspring of a Turk and a Serb from Albania. It is unclear how her father became an Albanian Serb since he claims that his grandparents were an Iraqi Jew and a Catholic Roma.

On stage since 1957, Esma – according to her personal site, has 586 works on records, two of which went platinum, eight – golden and eight – silver, as well as eight hours of video material filmed for MTV.

Many of her gypsy folk songs have become popular tunes around the Balkans. They can be heard in establishments, echoing until the early hours of the morning, in all corners of former Yugoslavia – from Skopje’s restaurants and courtyards to Belgrade’s splavivi – the rafts along the Danube and Sava Rivers, Sarajevo’s beer gardens and Croatia’s local pubs.

One of the last hypes surrounding Esma is her threat to sue the producers of the controversial film Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan. The reason was that, according to Redžepova, the soundtrack used one of her crowning tunes - Čaje Šukarije, without her permission.

Check out some of Esma's songs here:
Esma Redzepova with Crno Vino
Esma Redzepova with Titi Robin

 

Epicure


Macedonia
Culinary (and Other) Delights of Macedonia's Tikvesh Wine Region

In this engaging travel piece, the author recounts a summer expedition into Macedonia’s wine country, and a trip down the country’s ‘other’ lake - Tikvesh, which is also the general name for the entire dry and dusty region of south-central Macedonia where the country’s best wine is cultivated and where life still moves to an age-old bucolic village rhythm. Full Story



Curiosity Chest


Macedonia
Such an Easy Metaphor

In the centre of Skopje, there is a clock which shows the correct time only twice in the course of 24 hours: shortly before dawn and at dusk. This mode of operation has been in place since 5:17am on July 26, 1963, when the Macedonian capital was half-destroyed by an earthquake with a magnitude of 6.9 on the Richter Scale. Full Story











Annoyances in the Balkans


Balkans
Relentless Homophobia Rages in the Balkans

Be IN-tolerant! Be normal!, appeals a poster (pictured above) that recently flooded the streets of the Bulgarian capital, Sofia.

As the first gay pride parade in Bulgaria is about to take place, amid strong opposition by nationalistic organisations and a large part of society, the high levels of persistent homophobia in the country and the Full Story


Insiders' Advice


If the relentless homophobia is already that bad, what's the attitude in general towards HIV/AIDS, given the rather worrying HIV-prevalence in Eastern Europe and Russia?
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Is it easy to drive in the Balkans? Depends. If you are looking for adrenalin, this is a cheap way to get it. Expats say the best tactics is not to get annoyed.
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How to pick the right time to go? Winter is beautiful in the high mountains, the problem is, it can be so cold! Then again, who cares how cold it is - the locals have a cheap cure: heavy red wine. Sometimes warmed up.
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You can't trust local maps. Nor some international travel guides. One of them, for instance, says, that Neretva River in Bosnia and Herzegovina flows FROM the Adriatic towards the inland of the Balkans, never reaching the sea. OK, how about the Neretva delta and channel in Croatia?
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The Big Book of Travelling


United States
The Rise of Burlesque in New York: Tassels and the City

Burlesque – the more audacious relative of commedia dell'arte, is in revival. A reality in “upside down style”, this creative, witty and softer version of striptease is back on stage, following an absence of nearly 80 years. In New York, Anjeza Bojku scoped out several burlesqee venues for BalkanTravellers.com. Full Story

Thailand
A Short Guide to the Peculiarities of Thai Food