Žica: As Close to Rome as to Constantinople
BalkanTravellers.com
Žica was built by Stefan Nemanja’s son – Sava, and stands, symbolically, at an equal distance from Rome and Constantinople. Its location is an expression of the desire of the medieval Serbian state to exist independently, by balancing between European Christianity’s two capitals.In the context of the twelfth century, that was a brave decision. The cooling of the relations with the Orthodox or the Catholic Church at that time often meant not only diplomatic hardships but also wars. It was even more of a challenge to Sava, who built the monastery after returning from a prolonged stay at Mount Athos.
His certainty that the Serbian Church must seek a balance and get as close to Rome as to Constantinople, left a visible trace on the religious constructions of that era – the churches’ exteriors are Romanesque and their interiors are Byzantine. While the iconography remained an expression of Eastern traditions, the façades – like those of Catholic churches, were decorated with animals and floral motifs around the portals.
Žica was the first monastery to be built after the founding of the Serbian Patriarchy and, as such, carries a special significance to the Serbs. According to the legend, Sava – who was canonized as a saint later, reached the place by following a golden thread (or wire, the Serbian word for which is žica[ital]). Intended as to be the crowning wreath of statehood, it was pained dark red as a reference to the monasteries in Montenegro.The original frescos have been destroyed to a large extent – during a 1290 attack by the Bulgarians and later, during the Ottoman Empire’s rule. A part of them were preserved alongside the dome’s interior, as well as the Crucifixion in the southern part of the church. Even though it is now largely a product of restoration, the Žica Monastery remains one of the grandest in Serbia.
Practical information: Žica is located at about an hour’s walk from the centre of Kralevo in Central Serbia. It is easy to reach by car, as there are sufficient signs along the road. It can be reached by public transportation as well – with the bus for Mataruška Banja.
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