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Sunday, 06 July 2008

Balkan Cuisine


Balkan Culinary Wars III: Other People’s Meatballs

Ćevapčići from Leskovac, köfte from İzmir or Bulgarian kebapche? Greek keftedes too, please!

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Macedonia
Culinary (and Other) Delights of Macedonia's Tikvesh Wine Region

In this engaging travel piece, the author recounts a summer expedition into Macedonia’s wine country, and a trip down the country’s ‘other’ lake - Tikvesh, which is also the general name for the entire dry and dusty region of south-central... Full Story


Macedonia
Balkan Culinary Wars 2: The Epic Battle over a Vegetable Relish

Ajvar, lyutenitsa, zacuscă or biber salçası? The peppers, tomatoes and aubergines purée is to inflame as much hostility as the Macedonian issue a century ago.

The whole thing must have started innocently enough, with the intoxicating smell... Full Story


Turkey
Urfa Kebab, Çig Köfte

Once in a local restaurant in Urfa, most connoisseurs of Turkish cuisine would immediately order the Urfa kebab – the wonderfully tasty pieces of ground meat on a stick, accompanied by lots of onion and tomato fried on a hot plate, spiced with... Full Story


Serbia
Serbians' Buttery Pride

Like all nations, the people of the Balkans also have their culinary obsessions: the Turks put aubergines over everything, the Greeks – oregano, and the Bulgarians – a herb known as tshubritsa (a kind of savory), thus making the meaning of the... Full Story


Bulgaria
Double, Double, Toil and Trouble, Fire Burn and Cauldron Bubble

During the height of winter the Balkans destroy their treasures. But this is not some kind of season of vandalism; it is rather a period of sweet pleasures – the treasures are culinary and they get devoured. In order to make these happy weeks... Full Story


Bulgaria
Balkan Culinary Wars 1: Turkey, Bulgaria, Serbia and Greece in a Ruthless Fight over a Greasy Snack

A dozen modifications of the same dish are at the bottom of a deep culinary dispute on the Balkans. The Bulgarian banitsa, the Serbian gibanica, the Greek pita, the Macedonian maznik and the Bosnian-Turkish börek are in constant competition over... Full Story


Macedonia
Boudain Noir à la Prilep

In France, they have been making boudain for at least 1000 years, using at least 100 different recipes. On the Balkans, they have been making boudain for at least 1000 years, using at least 100 different recipes and there are at least ten nations... Full Story


Bulgaria
Haute Cuisine in Kurkizhaba

There is a peculiar type of people living in northern Bulgaria. They name their villages Kravoder, Kurkizhaba or Studeno Buche; ride bikes or donkeys; raise fledglings in a bucket; and give their neighbours sarcastic nicknames. Full Story


Bulgaria
Sour Cabbage for Bitter Bulgarian Winter

Most Europeans associate sour cabbage with a film scene in which the French comedian Louis de Funès demonstrated the consequences of its consumption. We get the French sense of humour and there is probably not a single Bulgarian who didn’t cry... Full Story




Curiosity Chest


Balkans
Blue Amulets Guard Against the Evil Eye in Greece, Turkey and Bulgaria

If you’ve ever spent time in Turkey or Greece, you’ll surely remember the feeling that you’re constantly being watched. Blue circles in the shape of single, stylised eyes constantly observe from everywhere – dangling from cars’ rear-view mirrors, hanging on houses’ doors, adorning people’s necks, wrists and ears in the form of jewellery, or painted onto boats or even planes.

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Useful reads


Albania
The Siege (2008) | By Ismail Kadare

The Siege by Ismail Kadare was published recently in English, almost 40 years after it came out in Albania. The historical novel, written during Albania’s isolation imposed by the communist regime, is a fascinating allegory of this part of the Balkans in the 1970s– a reality which no Albanian writer was allowed to describe in a more direct way at the time.
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Music Box


Bulgaria
Experimenting with Eastern Orthodox Chants

Milen Ivanov/Daniel Spasov | Thou Art Blessed, Lord |Kuker Music, 2007 Full Story







Annoyances in the Balkans


Balkans
Relentless Homophobia Rages in the Balkans

Be IN-tolerant! Be normal!, appeals a poster (pictured above) that recently flooded the streets of the Bulgarian capital, Sofia.

As the first gay pride parade in Bulgaria is about to take place, amid strong opposition by nationalistic organisations and a large part of society, the high levels of persistent homophobia in the country and the Full Story


Insiders' Advice


Is it easy to drive in the Balkans? Depends. If you are looking for adrenalin, this is a cheap way to get it. Expats say the best tactics is not to get annoyed.
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How to pick the right time to go? Winter is beautiful in the high mountains, the problem is, it can be so cold! Then again, who cares how cold it is - the locals have a cheap cure: heavy red wine. Sometimes warmed up.
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You can't trust local maps. Nor some international travel guides. One of them, for instance, says, that Neretva River in Bosnia and Herzegovina flows FROM the Adriatic towards the inland of the Balkans, never reaching the sea. OK, how about the Neretva delta and channel in Croatia?
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The Big Book of Travelling


United States
The Rise of Burlesque in New York: Tassels and the City

Burlesque – the more audacious relative of commedia dell'arte, is in revival. A reality in “upside down style”, this creative, witty and softer version of striptease is back on stage, following an absence of nearly 80 years. In New York, Anjeza Bojku scoped out several burlesqee venues for BalkanTravellers.com. Full Story

Thailand
A Short Guide to the Peculiarities of Thai Food